The newest in Hetty Lui McKinnon’s catalogue of cookbooks, Tenderheart, is an ode to vegetables and family. McKinnon tells the story of her father, saying, “For me, there can be no story about the significance of vegetables in my life without telling you about my father.” McKinnon describes the hold that grief can have on a person, how sometimes it
is easier to lock memories of the person away. McKinnon’s recipes span from new takes on favorites such as “Cauliflower Adobo” as well as new uses for vegetables altogether in recipes such as “Fennel and Black Pepper Ice Cream”. Tenderheart is a gorgeous book, full of both artful photographs of vegetables, as well as the recipes that make them flourish. This book is not a just a book about loss—rather a celebration of both her father and the vegetables he championed as a produce supplier at Flemington Markets.
One of the things I love about Tenderheart is McKinnon’s devotion to the home cook. McKinnon introduces us to the recipes by describing her time during the COVID-19 lockdown. She would experiment all the different ways, or she could use the staple vegetables that were in her pantry, since grocery trips were not a reliable luxury. Sometimes, this would be using frozen or dried ingredients instead of fresh, and sometimes that means turning something that is usually savory into a sweet delicacy. I applaud this creativity; in relating her experience experimenting in the kitchen, McKinnon then invites her readers to be imaginative. Working within limits can create the most innovative products. There are notes for how one could swap out vegetables or make adjustments for gluten free or vegan diets. Cookbooks that present recipes as guides rather than strict rules help encourage readers to cook the recipes even if they aren’t able to get the exact ingredients. I think the most successful cookbooks are those that foster a love for cooking and help build up their readers’ cooking intuition.
Tenderheart is split into sections by “lead vegetable,” rather than the traditional sections of “courses.” This leads to an in-depth look at each ingredient and emphasizes the versatility of each individual vegetable. McKinnon breaks down her recipes into accessible steps. The recipes are an unpretentious exploration which will lead home chefs to feel a sense of independence in the kitchen. I enjoy that McKinnon invites you to craft these beautiful meals out of vegetables with a friendly tone.
Tenderheart succeeds at making vegetables the star. It is a gorgeous book that doubles as a coffee table decoration; it gives each ingredient the limelight as if it were on the cover of Vogue. McKinnon’s true magic is not the expert styling, but in her choices of flavor. Each of these recipes comes from an adoration for the possibilities contained in a single sprig of greens, mushroom, or seaweed. This refreshing collection of vegetarian recipes builds showstopping nourishing meals from basics. Many of these recipes are based on McKinnon’s Chinese heritage, and some from an appreciation of other cultures. Recipes such as “Cabbage Carbonara-ish” are takes on traditionally meat-based dishes, but most others are inventions unto themselves. Some of my favorites are “Soy Pickled Tomatoes with Silken Tofu” and “Carrot-Almond Polenta Cake.”
McKinnon writes not just with a love of vegetables, but a deep love and appreciation for people around her. Along with the backstory of her dad, she shares a touching vignette of her mom and the resiliency that comes with loss. Her writing on friendship later on in the book reemphasizes the connection that food can forge, and especially the way food can help soothe the pains that grief brings us. Tenderheart is a wonderful example of how, while remembering our lost loved ones can be hard, it is important work that leads to new experiences. We are made better by these memories, even when remembering can bring up the pain of our losses.
McKinnon stuns with practical recipes that burst with flavor, while bringing readers on a journey of grief and love. An award-winner for a reason, Tenderheart is a modern classic. McKinnon fosters new appreciation for everyday ingredients, encouraging an adventurous spirit in the kitchen.
For more of McKinnon’s recipes, you can sign up for her newsletter, “To Vegetables, With Love,” or visit her Instagram. She has also published four other cookbooks.
Elinor Serumgard is a poet, artist, and book reviewer from Issaquah, WA. Elinor graduated from Western Washington University in 2022 with a degree in Creative Writing. For more of their work, please see elinorserumgard.com
